So Wikipedia says, and India many of us know ……
The Dev Deepavali (lit. ‘the Diwali of the Gods‘, ‘Festival of Lights of the Gods’)[2] is the festival of Kartik Poornima celebrated in the city of Varanasi Uttar Pradesh, India.[3] It falls on the full moon of the Hindu month of Kartika (November – December) and takes place fifteen days after Diwali. The steps of all the ghats on the riverfront of the Ganges River, from Ravidas Ghat at the southern end to Rajghat, are lit with more than a million earthen lamps (diyas) in honour of Ganga, the Ganges, and its presiding goddess. Mythologically, the gods are believed to descend to Earth to bathe in the Ganges on this day.[4][5] The festival is also observed as Tripura Purnima Snan.[2][6] The tradition of lighting the lamps on the Dev Deepawali festival day was first started at the Dashashwamedh Ghat by Pandit Kishori Raman Dubey (Babu Maharaj) in 1991.
The festival is a major tourist attraction, and the sight of a million lamps (both floating and fixed) lighting the ghats and river in vivid colors have often been described by visitors and tourists as a breathtaking sight. On the night of the festival, thousands of devotees from the holy city of Varanasi, surrounding villages, and across the country gather in the evening on the ghats of the Ganges to watch the aarti. The local government makes several intensive security arrangements to ensure order during the festival.[4]
Apart from the aarti at the Dashameshwar Ghat, all buildings and houses are lit with earthen lamps. Nearly 100,000 pilgrims visit the riverfront to watch the river aglitter with lamps.[9] The aarti is performed by 21 young Brahmin priests and 24 young women.[8] The rituals involve chanting hymns, rhythmic drum beating, conch shell blowing, and brazier burning.[9]
Boat rides (in boats of all sizes) along the riverfront in the evening are popular among tourists, when all the ghats are lit with lamps and aarti is being performed
According to the Shiva Purana, there once lived three powerful demon brothers – Tarakaksha, Kamalaksha, and Vidyunmali – collectively known as the Tripurasura. Through intense penance, they gained a boon from Lord Brahma to build three invincible aerial cities (Tripura) – one of gold, one of silver, and one of iron – that could only be destroyed when all three aligned in a single line.
Empowered by their fortresses, the Tripurasura began to terrorize the gods and sages. In desperation, the Devas sought Lord Shiva’s help. Shiva mounted a celestial chariot, formed by the gods themselves – with the Earth as the chariot, the Sun and Moon as its wheels, and Brahma as the charioteer – and aimed a single flaming arrow.
When the three cities aligned, Shiva – in his form as Tripurantaka (the Destroyer of the Three Cities) – released the arrow, annihilating the demons and their cities in one moment of divine precision
The gods rejoiced at this victory and celebrated by lighting countless lamps (deepas) in honor of Lord Shiva’s triumph over darkness. This celestial celebration is believed to have occurred on Kartik Purnima, giving rise to Dev Deepawali – the Diwali of the Gods.
The story of Dev Deepawali is deeply symbolic. Lord Shiva’s victory over Tripurasura represents the destruction of ego, ignorance, and desire – the “three cities” of bondage that imprison the soul.
In his role as Tripurantaka, Shiva is not merely a destroyer but a liberator, dissolving illusion and restoring divine order. Thus, Dev Deepawali embodies the spiritual triumph of light (jnana) over darkness (avidya), marking the ultimate victory of divine consciousness.
You could look at minimum 2 days to 5 days itinery if you wish to breathe the charm of this spiritually and mystically significant place in the state of Uttar Pradesh in North India. 2 days itinery will just make you experience the major 4-5 ghats of Benaras alongside the holy Ganges and visit the historical Ramgargh fort and scenic Mirzapur with covering the iconic Vishwanath temple ( Kashi temple) , near Dashashwamedh ghat . For a great and complete experience, please have atleast 3-4 days . There are places like Sarnath (where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon; stupas like Dhamek stupa and monastries nearby Benaras (which can be covered in a day long trip ). Also is the Bodh Gaya (where Buddha attained enlightenment) . Both these places are must watch to experience a divine connection with the self and decode the pulse of Buddhism !
So dwelve within yourself and find what pulls you ?
If history and ancient Indian mythology charms you then include the Forts across the Ghats of Benaras, talk a walk across all the Ghats (starting from Assi Ghat in the South and moving northwards through popular spots like Dashashwamedh Ghat , Manikarnika (for cremation and ‘salvation’ Ghat), Panchaganga and ending with Raj Ghat (Adikeshava Ghat) which will be around 8 kms along a well constructed ‘Ghat’ . Take the Benaras city walk and street walk tour with a guide and pre book to hear the hidden stories behind this city !
If you are religious and attracted to Vedic and Hinduism, do visit the Gauri -Kedareshwar temple , at Kedar Ghat ( believed to be the oldest Swayambhu and equivalent to 12 Kedarnath pilgrimage travel equivalent to touching the ‘linga’ at this site !), very few are aware of this site and the Sankat mochan temple, along with Mahamrityunjay temple . Visit the early morning pre sunrise ‘Arati’ at the ganges near Assi Ghat with white swans flying around and joining the ritual… the evening post sunset arati at Dashashwamedh Ghat ……and sit in silence near the Ghats , or see the early morning (@ 4.30 am) special ‘Brahma muhurta arati’ t Kashi Vishwanath . There are multiple slots of arati booking which is online available at the Kashi Vishwanath site . Please book the arati tickets atleast 1 month in advance ; on special dates these gets sold out very soon. The online tickets are available on a 60 day advance booking window period/
Finding the right accomodation in Benaras could be a bit of a challenge . Most of the good stays are away from the ‘Ghat’ and you may have to walk down some 2-3 kms or take a rickshaw (which is great fun too…moving across the streets of Benaras) . There are a few heritage-star rated properties which gets sold out online near the Ghat . The back packer travellers have great options to choose from Air Bnb type /Hostels which also attracts foreigners . Booking.com , tripadvisor.com are good sites to book in Benaras.
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Take the Vande Bharat express from New Delhi to reach Varanasi . The easiest and most convenient from the capital city . There are two railway stations , one at Varanasi junction and at Mughal Sarai Junction . Varanasi has its airport and flights from Mumbai are available. Watch the tropical grasses during winter months as you travel from Delhi-Varanasi
Having a darshan at the ‘Swayambhu’ Shivalinga at Kashi Vishwanath is the main attraction in Benaras. However this temple is super crowded 365 days a year and 24 hours a day !
True !
And on special dates like Maha Shivratri , and Hindu festival dates entering the temple will be like a MI – Mission Mode !!
So I had done quite a bit of ‘research’ and home work on this – as to how easiest (note least time and calories) to enter Kashi Vishwanath temple, since my vist was during the auspicious ‘Dev Deepwali’ time where a huge flux of crowd was expected !
Well it finally turned out that my research failed – and it took me close to 1.5 hours to enter by walk to temple , (with a strolling kind of itinery combined with it ).
So I had learnt ( and was very proud to know this top secret supposedly!) that there’s a new ‘way’ which goes through the ‘Ghat’ of Benaras and makes you enter through ‘Ganga Dwar’ into the Kashi Vishwanath temple. Its supposed to be some ‘back door entry’..and very few people know of it and take it …and so this kick attracted me instantly! Women we are – Anything that less people know we love those roads 😉
Well for those not as adventurous, and happy with the conventional roads 😉 …Gate number 4 (Godowlia) and Gate no 10 are the common entry gates . The queues here are serpentine . However knowing the right time to visit the temple is critical ! Around 3am -6 pm is calmer and spiritually heightened .
There is also a entry from ‘Lalitha Ghat’ I learnt later .
So here I go ….. I left my hotel around 7.30 pm …with great enthusiasm and vigor (and also a recent back injury ) , strapped only with a little cash and my mobile ..planning to time my entry to the temple by 9 pm so that crowd may be less. Took a rickshaw from my hotel and got dropped at ‘Kedar ghat’, a mere 2 -3 kms distance . You must visit the ‘Gauri kedareshwar temple’ located just at Kedar Ghat .
After spending a quiet and inner calming 30-45 mins at the Gauri kedareshwar temple , I proceeded to take the long steps from the temple down to start the Ghat Road walk to reach Kashi vishwanath – planning to enter through the ‘Ganga Dwar’ gate . I just asked a ‘babaji’ …..”how long /how far to reach the Ganga Dwar’ guruji . He looked at me up and down and nervously told me ‘ Beti you can take the ferry boats from here !” “Thats an option you have “!
I took some 60 seconds to “process” and ” decode” what he meant and my feelings !! Did he mean the ghat road should not be taken ? Why he he look up-down at me ? Did I look not morbid enough !! I mentally also decided that I take this interpretation by guruji as an offense ! I am much more than what I appear !! 🙂
As if the ‘hurt’ caused by guriji was not enough – another young man told me ( he must be feeling like a saviour to me )….Ganga Ghat is little far why do you want to walk !
Are I told him – what the heck!!
Please tell me how many Kilometers . So he told me , its some 4-5 kms ..you can take the boat/ferry from this Ghat .
I tried to mentally reason out . I wanted to see and experience all the sights and sounds of Ghats of Benaras , and taking a Ferry will spoil this. Secretly my tummy was empty as well …I wanted to snack on the food on the ‘Ghats’ as well ….I had planned around a 1-2 hours on this charter ..before entering Kashi Vishwanath temple . So finally with a bit of inner strategic thoughts – I took the name of ‘Shiva’ and started the walk on the Ghats .
Time was around 8.15 pm then !
Pristine , calm air …..cold breeze of December …thin crowds …(the very next day was ‘Dev Deepwali’)…people were busy lightning their ghats and stringing garlands of flowers for the ‘big day’ of year ….young couples hand in hand…..lost while looking at the Ganges …..with the moonlight reflection falling on the water …such happy and carefree people and hearts . I continued my walk …….
Well the Ghat roads on a winter night will be absolutely calm , will make you forget your worries of life …(unless someone is suffering from a recent S2-S3 injury …aka Spinal truncation ..;)) …..will make you feel as though “You” are a minscule particle on this unimaginable eternal Universe !
The nearby Ganges with beautifully lighted adorned with earthen lamps and fishermen returning back , will make you experince a peculiar “connectedness” with everyone and everything happening around You !!
And the bright full moon …..
Will tug the hearts of those who are in love !!
Sporadically you will come in awe and amaze on watching some ‘Sadhu’s lost in their deep medidation ! Failed to find the difference in some , as to whether ‘slept off’ or just in a ‘trance’ !!
What was Not expected !!??
Folks , I wasn’t prepared for a altitude climbing and rock traversing kind of a experience tonight on this Ghat walk extravaganza atleast !
So there will be patches where you will have to walk (in my case ‘jump’…with respect to my height !)…over temporary boulders and sand bags linking one Ghat end to the adjoining one over the Ganges . That’s almost equivalent to hamstring and calf raises weight trainings in Gym ! And it was forbidden for me then 😉 But great fun …go for it ..kids will love it !!
Also lots of steps in between the ghats …medium level …..that will feel like a full 300 Kcals work out done an hour !
So the excitement was full on ! And this ‘Ghat Walk’ was worth the ‘pain’ . [Though in night @ 2 am, after taking a painkiller tab ..I was dwelling and debating on this once again ] .
So after walking past like 6-7 Ghats , I mentally calculated and queried ..Is the Kilometers greater in Benaras ? Eternal city …links if any impacted this ….? and then dropped such invalid thoughts ….and looked at STRAVA / apple watch and kinda shicked that it was already 4.2 kms since the start . So have i lost the ‘Gnanga Dwar-cum Ganga Ghat’?
So asked someone …..he asked me to go some 300 mtrs back and find a steps going up from the Ghat !
Yeah so in overexcitement I missed that gate ….also there was no mention of ‘Ganga Dwar’ on my way .
So a word of caution please keep asking someone ……
Some 1 km more walk till the Vishwanath Complex entry ……it was 9 pm ….I was kinda exhausted …..however the charge in heart was strong enough . The vibrations of the place will pull you !
Some empathetic men on the narrow roads ..gave a look of ‘concern’ …’care’ looking at a solo woman ….lost in her ‘Bhakti’ trying to take ‘Vishwanath Darshan ‘. I folded hands …smiled at their concern …..felt temporarily nice ….but then allowed my ‘practical wave’ come over me …”.I alone will have to use my Hamstrings and Glutes for reaching the temple …so better ignore and focus your emotions on the never ending steps !!
Bless those souls for they kept guiding me in the dark nights …so that I dont miss any turn !
And my patience and Adenosine Tri Phosphate reserves in every part of my cell was slowly coming to ‘reserve levels’ by 10 pm !
I finally entered at 10 pm !
The sight and sounds cant be put on words !
The temple was wearing a thick blanket of flowers ..beautifully lighted ….like some palace hoisting a princess’ wedding …..sea of people …..and hoards of Uttar Pradesh Police men at every step ! Massive checkings/friskings and a super systematic process of managing crowds!
From outside I could hear the roaring chants ‘Om Namah Shivaya’…’Har Har Mahadeva’ and ‘Night arati’ was soon about to start in few minutes ! I was in luck !
Things that came as hurdles ……
So Nothing other than You and cash is allowed inside . Leather wallets and belts and any items not allowed too. I was aware of these .
But unfortunately all the counters for mobile deposit and Shoe keeping was choked by 10 pm….since 11 pm the temple closes and next day is ‘Dev Deepawali’ …..so In India …tempers rise significantly during ‘stressful times’…counter complemented by our ‘respectful population size !.
So the same happened that night . The deposit counters went short of ‘lockers’, and the line became serpentine …and the clock was ticking…11 pm the temple will close and re open only at 3.30 am next !
Will all this struggle of mine go to vain !!?
Left my current state on ‘Shiva’ at that time …..as I normally always do when things not in my control !
Looking at the deadline and the near impossible probability of able to enter the temple and touch ‘Shivalinga’ – I reasoned ..I had two options . A – to get into ‘action’ and fight for a locker for my shoes and mobile …B – To conserve my last few ATP molecules and keep praying that the line moves and magically somehow ..may ‘something happen’. I was already tired and drained ……
Then somehoe….something happened.
Some CRPF security guards came and cleared the chaos …..and finally with a lot of praying and patience my time came and I deposited my ‘stuff’ with the locker guy …and ran towards the temple Dwar!
While in the queue …I noticed something……[ My dismay!!]
I was almost in tears now !! I just could’nt afford to leave the queue to deposit my shoes ..the temple will close !!
I turned behind and found a deeply religious Husband-wife(South Indian ) chanting away some illegible Vedic sholkas and waiting for entry . I softly in despair requested them if they would hold my place in the queue while I go back to deposit my shoes !?
I still don’t understand the offence of my request tilll date !
But I got scolded badly …” The gentleman told me …to not fool around …and better allow them to move “!! I could understand the 11 Pm deadline on everyone’s Mind !! Practiced deep breathing …..meditative acceptance of the anger thrusted …and then went back to focus on my still ‘unsolved problem’..
I needed to act fast !!! I was still in the queue and had to do something !!!
Making it to the ‘shoe counter’ and join back to queue – useless given time of closure of temple !
Trying to dislodge ‘myself’ from my shoes while not leaving the queue……a possibility !
But then where to ‘drop’ my ‘ trek shoes’…couldnt afford to lose it ?
In a few minutes ..it was a mental ‘tug of war’…between ‘Shiva’ and ‘my beloved shoes’ !! Really mean we humans becomes at times !
Obviously – ‘ Shiva’ won ! (He only provided me the shoe ..I reasoned !!!)
So I tried next ‘hunting’ for a ‘good soul’ who could take my shoes and keep it at some place outside the queue and safely .
My ‘by then sharp eyes’….had also targeted a ‘safe place’ around the queue .
A place on the Complex ground steps ..where two giggly young girls where busy chatting away ! Close to them my shoes would be safe …since no one would venture there (supposedly)!
I then started back to hunting a good hearted person !
A young man ..who probably had already completed the ‘darshan’!…..I begged him …telling him my problem .
And he accepted …leaving me in gratitude!
The Day 2 was the day when entire Benaras was expected to go ‘beserk’ and in ‘chaos’… It was Dev Deepawali day !!
See , Benaras is an ancient city , with narrow one way lanes and risky closed Ghat roads !
And if even 5 % of India’s population reaches here , It will choke Benaras .
And also become a ‘nightmare for UP Police and administration’ !
This is my take home from the visit
My plan was to visit ‘Assi Ghat’ for the divine ‘Pre sunrise arati’ ..then come back to hotel , have breakfast , freshen up for the day ….and visit the Kal Bhairav temple and other important temples …and finally have a good Benarasi lunch Thali . I wanted to reach Dashaswamedh Ghat for evening Arati and the great annual splendour show of Laser /Lights/ Festivities/cultural and VIP presence shows as per Vedic ritual . I heard someone yesterday reamark that to get a ‘good place’ for this show at Dashashwamedh Ghat…one must ‘be seated ‘ atleast by 3 pm ! I ignored the remark …..to sit at 3 pm for a 6 pm evening function !??
Even Airport reporting time is not so much !!
So Assi Ghat plan got dropped …since i reached my hotel last night after the Kashi Vishwanath darshan at 12.30 pm ….and was too exhausted the entire night !
After breakfast found out that Varanasi police has sealed all roads to the temples and Ghats for rickshaws and cabs ..and only walking was permitted !
Ola /UBER reported mass failures .
Rickshaws will drop some 1.5-2 kms away from Godowlia chowk or to whichever closest ghat point alone .
Every temple was reporting ‘stampede like’ queues !
Visiting Kal Bhairav became practically impossible. I didn’t have the stamina for another previous night type experience !?
Got Shiva’s darshan and that was good enough for me .
So then reasoned , that if this is how Benares has been plunged into a sea of PEOPLE OF INDIA !
“The main event of 6 pm at Dashwamedh Ghat will be like Crazy!!!”
So then I simply tried to directly reach Dashwamedh Ghat ….at around 12 pm……huge sea of people , vendors, police ……’secured’ a place on the Ghat …and spent close to 5 hours till the Dev -Deepawali event!
